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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. But, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary honour.